Photo by SunsoakedCreative, Whistling Sands, North Wales, 2013 View image
I have never ridden a wave but none of this seems to matter, one day I might. There is something about surfing that captivates me but I'm really rubbish at it. It doesn't stop me trying though.
Last year this Vanity Fair article was published about the film The Endless Summer. The poster from this iconic film is 51 years old and is still a head turner. For me it means so much more, when I look at my Endless Summer poster it takes me back to Byron Bay in September 2003 and the start of lifelong friendships and dreams of a life less ordinary.
Here is an excerpt from my diary entry on September 6th 2003
“I saw a great picture of two surfers advertising a film called The Endless Summer, I was really taken by it but it was $AUD 40, could I justify that? It’s a lot of money when you are living out your own endless summer in a VW camper. I met up with Nia and George (friends who were also travelling in a van) and went back to look at the poster, and then walked back to Pete and Bev’s (friends of friends who were letting us stay in their house). I asked Pete if he knew of the film, it was one of his favourites, he put it on. I knew then it was OK to buy the poster, two kids in the 60’s travelling the world to experience an endless summer of waves, taking surf boards to places like Africa where they'd never seen anything like it. The kind of story I love, the kind of life I want.”
There is something about surfing that captivates me but I’m really rubbish at it. It doesn’t stop me trying though. Running out into the water with your board, paddling out and waiting for nature to do its thing, and seeing what you are made of. Talking to other surfers or enjoying the noise of the sea, waiting to see if you can catch something that you have no control over. To be quite honest I have never managed to stand up on a board for more than a few seconds, I have never ridden a wave but none of this seems to matter, one day I might.
I have though, experienced an Endless Summer, in fact more than one (well over a year anyway) and I have my own story and the kind of life I want. That poster reminds me of that. Every time I look at it I am transported back to Byron Bay and Pete, the eternal surfer dude.
Sometimes we need a reminder of what we want to do and what we have done, The Endless Summer poster is mine and for $AUD 40 what a bargain!
The blurb on the poster says:
“On any day of the year it's summer somewhere in the world. Bruce Brown’s latest color film highlights the adventures of two young American Surfers, Robert August and Mike Hynson who follow this everlasting summer around the world. Their unique expedition takes them to Sengal, Ghana, Nigeria, South Africa, Australia, New Zealand, Tahiti, Hawaii and California. Share their experiences as they search for that perfect wave which may be forming just over the next horizon.”